We call it a territory, because it’s bigger than an estate,” Will Harlan tells me as he flips the switch into four-wheel drive, scattering a covey of California quail foraging next to the steep dirt road. It’s hard to believe we are only a little more than a mile west of the town of Yountville; we seem to have traversed at least a century, passing a run-down shack that the occupant of the seat next to Harlan, winemaker Cory Empting, identifies as a former still. “There was an old gal who ran a bootlegging operation up here,” Harlan says. “Cory and I grew up in the Napa Valley, and we had no idea this area existed.”